Soap Making……. A Science or an Art?

Possibly not a topic we really think much about in our daily wash routine, but for soap maker Alicja of SANOlifestyle, it’s actually both. On a steamy hot January day at a cafe in Whangarei, I had the pleasure of meeting up with Alicja (Ala) who had some very interesting stories about how soap is actually made.

Ala, a scientist by trade, started making her own soap because of her and her family’s skin sensitivities and eczema. She attended a soap making course where the course tutor was making soap for her husband who suffered from psoriasis, a very painful skin condition. The focus was on using low concentrations of coconut oil and no irritants. Coconut oil is used as an alternative to Palm oil in soap products which is great for the planet, but not always great for sensitive skin types. But coconut oil is good for us isn’t it?

Ala explains “Coconut oil is used in soaps for hardening, lathering and cleansing but it is also drying for the skin. It is sort of like a wax, it blocks moisture getting in and depending on your skin type can cause irritation and itchiness. The answer to that is to use quality liquid oils instead, like olive oil, and low amounts of coconut oil.”

Most soap makers use 30-40% coconut oil where Ala uses as little as 10% especially for using on babies and sensitive skin types. Interestingly in Spain, the home of Castille soap, they use 100% olive oil and cure their soaps for at least 6 months before selling to the public. The longer you leave a soap to cure or dry, the longer it lasts and the higher the quality. A friend of Ala’s in Australia has a Castille soap she is still using after 80 years!

SANOlifestyle’s “ Charcoal soap” looks so good you just want to eat it and is great for teenage acnel

Originally from Poland, Ala and her husband arrived in Dunedin in 2003 after working in Korea, to live in a more “tropical climate” she says jokingly. Ala and her family moved to Northland in 2008 and became NZ citizens in 2010.

I asked Ala how she decides what to put in her soaps?

“ I look at the properties of the oils and other ingredients that are best for the skin, especially dry, sensitive skin. I use high quality edible oils, clay, herbs, tea infusions and therapeutic grade essential oils to make luxury but mild soaps. I test all my soaps on myself first. From chemical point, soap is ready after 72 hours but it is not mild enough to use.”

She checks the pH to be between 7.5-8.5, a bit higher than skin pH. A soap is long lasting when it is well dried which takes four to six weeks. The end of the batch is the best soap. It may not smell as strong as the first ones due to the evaporation of the essential oils, but the properties are best the longer you leave it. Ala says, “The longer you leave a soap the better, a bit like wine and cheese, but people need the final product quickly.”

Most of Ala’s soaps are ready after 4-6 weeks due to high customer demand.

The Leaning Tower of SANOlifestyle soaps

What new soap products are in the pipeline for 2021?

“ I like to try making new soaps with herbal extracts and infusions. I am also looking at using beer instead of water. Beer is good for cleaning and nourishing hair. Back in Poland, my Grand mother used to wet my hair with beer while curling it. I also want to make a natural henna soap for blonde, dark and red hair to help keep the colour longer lasting.”

The Salt Bar soap

A salt soap…..what the? Ala explains “ salt is naturally antibacterial and dry and draws moisture in to the skin. Dry salt treatment helps treat asthma and some respiratory conditions and acts like a fine exfoliate, leaving the skin soft and clean.” She says that in Poland, it was discovered that salt miners never got sick, never suffered from respiratory or skin conditions and had a high level of health.

Exclusive to the Mind, Body & Salt clinic in Whangarei, Ala makes range of salt soaps with 50-70% pure, medical grade sea salt. At the Clinic dry salt is dispensed like a salty mist to help treat respiratory conditions, eczema, acne and psoriasis.

SANOlifestyle’s 100% Olive and Bayleaf features in Gratitude’s Bathroom Luxe gift box and is just one of Ala’s soaps that can be found in our Build a Box gift box range. All soaps have mulitiple uses, for face, body, hair and even washing the dishes. One soap fits all so to speak!